LED spotlights are very popular these days. But, like any electronics, spotlights break relatively often.

Do-it-yourself LED spotlight repair and today's article will be devoted.

The whole theory on the construction of LED spotlights and terminology, and here is a practice for home craftsmen.

The spotlight does not light up - where to start?

First of all, you need to make sure that 220 V power is supplied to the driver. This is Az. Then it remains to decide what is faulty - the LED driver or the LED matrix.

Checking the driver

I remind you that the word “driver” is a marketing ploy to refer to a current source designed for a specific matrix with a certain current and power.

In order to test the driver without an LED (idle, no load), just apply 220V to its input. A constant voltage should appear at the output, slightly larger in value than the upper limit indicated on the block.

For example, if the range of 28-38 V is indicated on the driver block, then when it is turned on idle, the output voltage will be approximately 40V. This is explained by the principle of operation of the circuit - to maintain the current in a given range of ± 5%, with an increase in load resistance (idle = infinity), the voltage must also increase. Naturally, not to infinity, but to some upper limit.

However, this method of verification does not allow us to judge the health of the LED driver by 100%.

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The fact is that there are serviceable blocks that, when turned on idly, without load, either will not start at all, or will give out something incomprehensible.

I suggest connecting a load resistor to the output of the LED driver to provide it with the desired mode of operation. How to choose a resistor - according to Uncle Ohm's law, looking at what is written on the driver.

LED - 20W driver. Stable output current 600 mA, voltage 23-35 V.

For example, if Output 23-35 VDC 600 mA is written, then the resistance of the resistor will be from 23/0.6=38 ohms to 35/0.6=58 ohms. Choose from a range of resistances: 39, 43, 47, 51, 56 ohms. Power must be appropriate. But if you take 5 W, then it will be enough for a few seconds to check.

Attention! The output of the driver, as a rule, is galvanically isolated from the 220V network. However, you should be careful - there may not be a transformer in cheap circuits!

If, when the required resistor is connected, the output voltage is within the specified limits, we conclude that the LED driver is working.

Checking the LED Matrix

To check you can use laboratory block nutrition, . We supply a voltage that is obviously less than the nominal value. We control the current. The LED matrix should light up.

What to do if the power of the LED module is unknown

There are situations when there is led chip, but its power, current and voltage are unknown. Accordingly, it is difficult to buy it, and if it is serviceable, then it is not clear how to choose an adapter.

This was a big problem for me until I figured it out. I share with you how appearance LED assembly to determine what voltage, power and current it is.

For example, we have a spotlight with the following LED assembly:

9 diodes. 10 W, 300 mA. Actually - 9 W, but this is within the margin of error.

Gave in the fact that in the LED matrix spotlights diodes with a power of 1 W are used. The current of such diodes is 300 ... 330 mA. Naturally, all this is approximately, within the margin of error, but in practice it works exactly.

In this matrix, 9 diodes are connected in series, they have one current (300 mA), and a voltage of 3 Volts. As a result, the total voltage is 3x9 \u003d 27 Volts. Such matrices require a driver with a current of 300 mA, a voltage of approximately 27V (usually from 20 to 36V). The power of one such diode, as I said, is about 9 watts, but for marketing purposes this spotlight will be rated at 10 watts.

The 10W example is a bit atypical due to the special arrangement of the LEDs.

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Another example, more typical:

You already guessed that two horizontal rows of dots of 10 pcs are LEDs. One strip is offhand 30 volts, current 300 mA. Two strips connected in parallel - voltage 30 V, current twice as much, 600 mA.

A couple more examples:

Total - 50 W, current 300x5 \u003d 1500 mA.

Total - 70 W, 300x7 \u003d 2100 mA.

I think there is no point in continuing, everything is already clear.

A slightly different matter with LED modules based on discrete diodes. According to my calculations, there is one diode, as a rule, has a power of 0.5 watts. Here is an example of a GT50390 array installed in a 50W spotlight:

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. LED module GT50390 - 90 discrete diodes

If, according to my assumptions, the power of such diodes is 0.5 W, then the power of the entire module should be 45 W. Its circuit will be the same, 9 lines of 10 diodes with a total voltage of about 30 V. The operating current of one diode is 150 ... 170 mA, the total current of the module is 1350 ... 1500.

Who has other considerations on this subject - you are welcome in the comments!

LED spotlight driver repair

Repair is better to start with a search electrical circuit Led drivers.

As a rule, LED spotlight drivers are built on a specialized MT7930 chip. In the article about the Spotlight Device, I gave a photo of the board (non-waterproof) based on this microcircuit, once again:

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. Driver. GT503F board

Attention! Information on driver circuits and a little more on repair!

LED replacement

When replacing LED matrix There are no special tricks, but you need to pay attention to the following things.

• carefully remove the old thermal paste,
• Apply heat conductive paste to the new LED. The best thing to do is plastic card,
• fix the diode evenly, without distortions,
• remove excess paste
• do not reverse the polarity,
• do not overheat when soldering.

When repairing an LED module consisting of discrete diodes, first of all, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the soldering. And then check each diode by applying a voltage of 2.3 - 2.8 V to it.

Where to get repair parts

If you need a quick repair, then it is best, of course, to run to the store across the street.

But if you are doing repairs on an ongoing basis, then it is better to look where it is cheaper. I recommend doing this on the well-known website Aliexpress.

I end with this. I encourage colleagues to share their experience and ask questions!

Frequent problems with lighting at home involuntarily require self-troubleshooting. Agree, inviting a specialist regularly to bring an LED or any other type of device into operation is rather inconvenient. To avoid such discomfort, we suggest that you learn the basics about how to repair LED spotlights yourself.

Repair of LED spotlight

LED spotlight is one of the popular and popular devices used for lighting the local area. This tool is quite convenient to use, but sooner or later it will require repair. Therefore, it is so important to know the skills of correctly identifying a malfunction, eliminating dysfunction and being able to return the device to its normal state.

Attention! The basic LED floodlights do not provide for the replacement of light sources with another one with a different power.

What happened or the cause of the floodlight malfunction

Often a breakdown led lamp occurs due to overheating of the matrix. Overheating will blow fuses. Thus, indirect causes leading to device dysfunction are:

• short circuit;
• connection of overcurrents;
• overvoltage;
• connecting to the wrong network;
• non-compliance with the device connection diagram.

Let us consider how a matrix defect is formed in more detail. The Matrix is ​​a device powered by crystals. As a rule, there are dozens of them, and in the event of failure of three or five crystals, the device continues to work in the same mode. Complete combustion of the matrix requires intervention. In such situations, it is ideal to carry out a complete replacement of the matrix.

Important! In the process of repair work, the searchlight conductors should be additionally insulated. Also, in almost all cases, LED sources fail to work solely due to a malfunction of the drivers that feed the crystalline surface of the spotlight. If your device has become unusable during the warranty period, at the point of sale, you should be assisted and make a replacement device free of charge. Otherwise, you will have to resort to repairs yourself or pay for specialists.

To access the interior of the spotlight, unscrew the back cover

Do-it-yourself spotlight repair

Before starting repair work, you should acquire the necessary tools, as well as clarify the cause of the malfunction of LED spotlights and properly eliminate them. Chinese-made LED devices with a total power of 10 watts are considered frequent contenders for repairs, therefore, we will consider troubleshooting using such a device as an example. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions:

• We unfasten the cover of the device case to get to the internal mechanism.
• Remove the glass protection and light diffuser.
• Unsolder the LED source from the matrix.
• We solder it to a new workable crystal panel.
• We fix each bolt, check the spotlight with a multimeter.
• If the dialing shows the working position, then we fix the lamp in its place and enjoy its further work.

It is important to know! Before installing a new matrix, polarity must be observed.

After disassembling the spotlight, you can begin to repair. We draw the attention of beginners, after troubleshooting, you should act in reverse order. In addition, it is possible to find out failures in the following signs:

• flickering light bulb;
• dull burning;
• change of shades of the LED;
• deformation of wires and insulation failure.

How does an LED spotlight work?

The device works thanks to the joint work of several installed systems: optics, power supplies, drivers and heat sinks. Inside the case are LEDs and small electronic components. The power supply leads the voltage to the LED element, which converts the current into light beams, due to which the spotlight glows.

Attention! Do not open the sealed housing of the LED spotlight unnecessarily.

Improvement of LED elements

After the LED spotlight has been repaired and made sure that it works, you can slightly improve the device. In some devices that normally operate under 220 volt power conditions, a rectifier and stabilizer are usually not installed. Performing repairs yourself, such devices are very easy to install. To do this, connect in series pairs of LED sources that turn on in the opposite direction and attach a ballast capacitor to them. Watch a short video tutorial on how to repair LED spotlights with your own hands:

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If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.

LED spotlights are very popular these days. But, like any electronics, spotlights break relatively often. Do-it-yourself LED spotlight repair and today's article will be devoted.

The whole theory on the construction of LED spotlights and terminology is set out in, and here is a practice for home craftsmen.

1. The spotlight does not light - where to start?
2. Check the driver
3. Checking the LED Matrix
4. What should I do if the power of the LED module is unknown?
5. LED spotlight driver repair
6. Replacing the LED
7. Where can I get spare parts for repairs?

The spotlight does not light up - where to start?

First of all, you need to make sure that 220 V power is supplied to the driver. This is Az.

Checking the driver

I remind you that the word “driver” is a marketing ploy to refer to a current source designed for a specific matrix with a certain current and power.

In order to test the driver without an LED (idle, no load), just apply 220V to its input. A constant voltage should appear at the output, slightly larger in value than the upper limit indicated on the block.
For example, if the range of 28-38 V is indicated on the driver block, then when it is turned on idle, the output voltage will be approximately 40V. This is explained by the principle of operation of the circuit - to maintain the current in a given range of ± 5%, with an increase in load resistance (idle = infinity), the voltage must also increase. Naturally, not to infinity, but to some upper limit.

However, this method of verification does not allow us to judge the health of the LED driver by 100%.

The fact is that there are serviceable blocks that, when turned on idly, without load, either will not start at all, or will give out something incomprehensible.

I suggest connecting a load resistor to the output of the LED driver to provide it with the desired mode of operation. How to choose a resistor - according to Uncle Ohm's law, looking at what is written on the driver.
For example, if Output 23-35 VDC 600 mA is written, then the resistance of the resistor will be from 23/0, 6=38 ohms to 35/0, 6=58 ohms. Choose from a range of resistances: 39, 43, 47, 51, 56 ohms. Power must be appropriate. But if you take 5 W, then it will be enough for a few seconds to check.

Attention! The output of the driver, as a rule, is galvanically isolated from the 220V network. However, you should be careful - there may not be a transformer in cheap circuits!

If, when the required resistor is connected, the output voltage is within the specified limits, we conclude that the LED driver is working.
Checking the LED Matrix

To check, you can use a laboratory power supply, something like this. We supply a voltage that is obviously less than the nominal value. We control the current. The LED matrix should light up.

We control the current further and carefully increase the voltage so that the current reaches the nominal value. The matrix will burn full brightness. We confirm that it is 100% correct.
What to do if the power of the LED module is unknown

There are situations when there is an LED chip, but its power, current and voltage are not known. Accordingly, it is difficult to buy it, and if it is serviceable, then it is not clear how to choose an adapter.

This was a big problem for me until I figured it out. I am sharing with you how to determine by the appearance of the LED assembly what voltage, power and current it is.

For example, we have a spotlight with the following LED assembly:
9 diodes. 10 W, 300 mA. Actually - 9 W, but this is within the margin of error.

Gave in the fact that in the LED matrix spotlights diodes with a power of 1 W are used. The current of such diodes is 300 ... 330 mA. Naturally, all this is approximately, within the margin of error, but in practice it works exactly.

Maybe this will be interesting too?

In this matrix, 9 diodes are connected in series, they have one current (300 mA), and a voltage of 3 Volts. As a result, the total voltage is 3x9 \u003d 27 Volts. Such matrices require a driver with a current of 300 mA, a voltage of approximately 27V (usually from 20 to 36V). The power of one such diode, as I said, is about 9 watts, but for marketing purposes this spotlight will be rated at 10 watts.

The 10W example is a bit atypical due to the special arrangement of the LEDs.

Another example, more typical:

LED Assembly for 20W Spotlight

You already guessed that two horizontal rows of 10 dots are LEDs. One strip is offhand 30 volts, current 300 mA. Two strips connected in parallel - voltage 30 V, current twice as much, 600 mA.

A couple more examples:

5 rows (zig-zag) of 10 LEDs.

Total - 50 W, current 300x5 \u003d 1500 mA.

Matrix 7 rows of 10 LEDs

Total - 70 W, 300x7 \u003d 2100 mA.

I think there is no point in continuing, everything is already clear.

A slightly different matter with LED modules based on discrete diodes. According to my calculations, there one diode, as a rule, has a power of 0.5 watts. Here is an example of a GT50390 array installed in a 50W spotlight:
LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. LEDs - 90 discrete diodes

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. LED module GT50390 - 90 discrete diodes

If, according to my assumptions, the power of such diodes is 0.5 W, then the power of the entire module should be 45 W. Its circuit will be the same, 9 lines of 10 diodes with a total voltage of about 30 V. The operating current of one diode is 150 ... 170 mA, the total current of the module is 1350 ... 1500.

Who has other considerations on this subject - you are welcome in the comments!

4 led chip - LED modules for spotlights

LED modules for spotlights

LED modules for spotlights for various powers. Price - from 5 rubles / piece!

Read more about the device, as well as the repair of LED spotlights!

LED spotlight driver repair

It is better to start repair by looking for the electrical circuit of the Led driver.

As a rule, LED spotlight drivers are built on a specialized MT7930 chip. In the article about the Spotlight Device, I gave a photo of the board (not waterproof) based on this microcircuit, once again:
LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. Driver.

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. Driver. GT503F board

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. Driver. View from the soldering side

Attention! Information on driver schemes and a little more on repair is in a separate article!
LED replacement

When replacing the LED matrix, there are no special tricks, but you need to pay attention to the following things.

Carefully remove the old heat-conducting paste,
- apply heat-conducting paste to the new LED. It is best to do this with a plastic card,
- fix the diode evenly, without distortions,
-remove excess paste
- do not reverse the polarity,
- do not overheat when soldering.

When repairing an LED module consisting of discrete diodes, first of all, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the soldering. And then check each diode by applying a voltage of 2.3 - 2.8 V to it.
Where to get repair parts

If you need a quick repair, then it is best, of course, to run to the store across the street.

But if you are doing repairs on an ongoing basis, then it is better to look where it is cheaper. I recommend doing this on the well-known website Aliexpress.
Blog Services SamElektrik.ru. >>> GO AND GET DETAILS >>>

I end with this. I encourage colleagues to share their experience and ask questions!

One of the modern types of LED light sources for street lighting is the LED spotlight. The electrical circuit of the LED spotlight is not fundamentally different from the circuit of the LED lamp. The main difference lies in their design, since it is required to ensure operability in a wide temperature range in precipitation conditions. Therefore, repairing spotlights with your own hands is not much different from repairing LED lamps and even easier, since there are no difficulties during disassembly. To gain access to the driver and spotlight LEDs, it is enough to unscrew just a few screws.

Repair of a low-power LED spotlight

Two identical LED spotlights of the SDO01-10 type with a power of 10 W came to me for repair. During an external examination, a malfunction was immediately detected in one of them - a partial delamination of the protective layer and the presence of a dark spot on the light-emitting surface of the LED matrix.

The hope of repairing a floodlight with a faulty LED matrix immediately disappeared, since the cost of such an LED emitter is usually more than half the cost of a floodlight. Yes, and it is very problematic to purchase a new matrix, since there are usually no markings on the LEDs and it is difficult to determine the type of a non-standard emitter. The appearance of the second spotlight did not raise questions.

I decided to simplify the task of repair by rearranging the spotlight driver with a burned-out matrix into a spotlight with a working one. But the removal of the back covers showed that the drivers in both spotlights are faulty.

In both drivers, protective resistors with a nominal value of 1 ohm burned out, which indicated a breakdown of one of the diodes of the diode bridge or the key transistor.

Repair of a powerful LED spotlight

Once again I had to deal with the repair of a more powerful spotlight of the SDO01-30 type with a power of 30 watts.

The appearance of the spotlight is shown in the photo. In terms of overall dimensions, it is somewhat larger, and the design of the spotlight repeats the design of the above model.

After removal back cover from the searchlight and inspection of the appearance of the radio elements on the printed circuit board, no parts with a suspicious appearance were found.

Inspection of the printed circuit board after its removal from the side of the printed conductors immediately revealed two burnt resistors, R8 (2 ohms) and R22 (1 ohms). Usually, low-resistance resistors burn out from a large current flowing through them during the breakdown of semiconductor devices or capacitors. Next to the resistors was a powerful field transistor SVD4N65F, which turned out to be faulty during the dialing. There was no electrical circuit of the spotlight available and I had to find out the values ​​of the burnt resistors by opening a serviceable spotlight of the same type.

Faulty resistors and a transistor were soldered and all other semiconductor elements were additionally checked on the printed circuit board. After soldering serviceable resistors and a transistor in printed circuit board the spotlight worked.

As you can see, having the skills to work with a multimeter and a soldering iron, you can successfully repair any LED spotlights with your own hands.

The repaired spotlight has been working properly for several years. The second one was also recently repaired, thanks to the emergence of a new type of LED matrix, which does not require an additional driver, since it is already installed on the matrix substrate. Matrices are not more expensive than classic products.

In addition, it was possible not only to restore the working capacity of the searchlight, but also to increase its power three times, while achieving a zero pulsation coefficient.

LED spotlights are very popular these days. But, like any electronics, spotlights break relatively often. Do-it-yourself LED spotlight repair and today's article will be devoted.

The whole theory on the device of LED spotlights and terminology, and here is the practice for home craftsmen.

The spotlight does not light up - where to start?

First of all, you need to make sure that 220 V power is supplied to the driver. This is Az.

Checking the driver

I remind you that the word "driver" is a marketing ploy to refer to a current source designed for a specific matrix with a certain current and power.

In order to test the driver without an LED (idle, no load), just apply 220V to its input. A constant voltage should appear at the output, slightly larger in value than the upper limit indicated on the block.

For example, if the range of 28-38 V is indicated on the driver block, then when it is turned on idle, the output voltage will be approximately 40V. This is explained by the principle of operation of the circuit - to maintain the current in a given range of ± 5%, as the load resistance increases (idle = infinity), the voltage must also increase. Naturally, not to infinity, but to some upper limit.

However, this method of verification does not allow us to judge the health of the LED driver by 100%.

The fact is that there are serviceable blocks that, when turned on idly, without load, either will not start at all, or will give out something incomprehensible.

I suggest connecting a load resistor to the output of the LED driver to provide it with the desired mode of operation. How to choose a resistor - according to Uncle Ohm's law, looking at what is written on the driver.

LED - driver 20 W. Stable output current 600 mA, voltage 23-35 V.

For example, if Output 23-35 VDC 600 mA is written, then the resistance of the resistor will be from 23/0.6=38 ohms to 35/0.6=58 ohms. Choose from a range of resistances: 39, 43, 47, 51, 56 ohms. Power must be appropriate. But if you take 5 W, then it will be enough for a few seconds to check.

Attention! The output of the driver, as a rule, is galvanically isolated from the 220V network. However, you should be careful - there may not be a transformer in cheap circuits!

If, when the required resistor is connected, the output voltage is within the specified limits, we conclude that the LED driver is working.

Checking the LED Matrix

For testing, you can use a laboratory power supply,. We supply a voltage that is obviously less than the nominal value. We control the current. The LED matrix should light up.

What to do if the power of the LED module is unknown

There are situations when there is an LED chip, but its power, current and voltage are unknown. Accordingly, it is difficult to buy it, and if it is serviceable, then it is not clear how to choose an adapter.

This was a big problem for me until I figured it out. I am sharing with you how to determine by the appearance of the LED assembly what voltage, power and current it is.

For example, we have a spotlight with the following LED assembly:

9 diodes. 10 W, 300 mA. Actually - 9 W, but this is within the margin of error.

Gave in the fact that in the LED matrix spotlights diodes with a power of 1 W are used. The current of such diodes is 300 ... 330 mA. Naturally, all this is approximately, within the margin of error, but in practice it works exactly.

In this matrix, 9 diodes are connected in series, they have one current (300 mA), and a voltage of 3 Volts. As a result, the total voltage is 3x9 \u003d 27 Volts. Such matrices require a driver with a current of 300 mA, a voltage of approximately 27V (usually from 20 to 36V). The power of one such diode, as I said, is about 9 watts, but for marketing purposes this spotlight will be rated at 10 watts.

The 10W example is a bit atypical, due to the special arrangement of the LEDs.

Another example, more typical:

You already guessed that two horizontal rows of dots of 10 pcs are LEDs. One strip is offhand 30 volts, current 300 mA. Two strips connected in parallel - voltage 30 V, current twice as much, 600 mA.

A couple more examples:

Total - 50 W, current 300x5 = 1500 mA.

Total - 70 W, 300x7 = 2100 mA.

I think there is no point in continuing, everything is already clear.

A slightly different matter with LED modules based on discrete diodes. According to my calculations, there is one diode, as a rule, has a power of 0.5 watts. Here is an example of a GT50390 array installed in a 50W spotlight:

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. LED module GT50390 - 90 discrete diodes

If, according to my assumptions, the power of such diodes is 0.5 W, then the power of the entire module should be 45 W. Its circuit will be the same, 9 lines of 10 diodes with a total voltage of about 30 V. The operating current of one diode is 150 ... 170 mA, the total current of the module is 1350 ... 1500.

Who has other considerations on this subject - you are welcome in the comments!

LED spotlight driver repair

It is better to start repair by looking for the electrical circuit of the Led driver.

As a rule, LED spotlight drivers are built on a specialized MT7930 chip. In the article about the Spotlight Device, I gave a photo of the board (non-waterproof) based on this microcircuit, once again:

LED spotlight Navigator, 50 watts. Driver. GT503F board

Attention! Information on driver circuits and a little more on repair!

LED replacement

When replacing the LED matrix, there are no special tricks, but you need to pay attention to the following things.

• carefully remove the old thermal paste,
• Apply heat conductive paste to the new LED. It is best to do this with a plastic card,
• fix the diode evenly, without distortions,
• remove excess paste
• do not reverse the polarity,
• do not overheat when soldering.

When repairing an LED module consisting of discrete diodes, first of all, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the soldering. And then check each diode by applying a voltage of 2.3 - 2.8 V to it.

Where to get repair parts

If you need a quick repair, then it is best, of course, to run to the store across the street.

But if you are doing repairs on an ongoing basis, then it is better to look where it is cheaper. I recommend doing this on the well-known website Aliexpress.

I give several links for review and an example, there are a lot of interesting things, including descriptions, photos and choices.

LED Matrices:

• Led Chip large selection from 10 to 100 W, from 48 to 360 rubles.
• Powerful LEDs.

Drivers for LED spotlights, for different powers:

• 30W waterproof DC power supply,
• 50W waterproof DC power supply,
• Waterproof outdoor LED drivers 10, 20, 30, 50W DC.

And who does not want to repair, you can immediately order a ready-made one:

LED street spotlights:

• Street floodlights from 10 to 50 W,
• Waterproof flat floodlights from 10 to 100 W, LED Chip+Driver kit available.

To complete the picture - video from my colleagues, they share their experience:

I end with this. I encourage colleagues to share their experience and ask questions!

Previous work generously supplied me with the corpses of LED lamps and fixtures. Without going into technical details, more than 99% of what is sold everywhere is frank slag, fundamentally unable to work for a long time due to clearly insufficient, or even missing, cooling.

here is an example of complete slag: a bullshit pure plastic "radiator". the result is predictable: the LEDs burned out, blackening of the crystals is visible, and self-soldered

another dohlik

Relatively well made "old-style" LED spotlights with a one-piece cast aluminum body-radiator, but they are rapidly disappearing from the market.

old style spotlight

old style spotlight

But, apparently, the sellers and the Chinese considered that so much lumin is too fat, and they optimized these spotlights. Now on sale everywhere are spotlights of a "new model" with a plastic case and a separate radiator.

30W spotlight new design

Cartridge supplied for sizing. The radiator has a fin area of ​​around 200 sq.cm. The result is predictable: heating of the radiator in the region of + 100g, rapid degradation and failure of the LEDs

gut spotlight 30w

please note: there are 60pcs of 0.5W type 5630 LEDs. diodes are 100% used. Stock by modes? what nonsense, did not hear. And my teacher in electronics back in the 80s used to say that the components were used at > 60% of the limit modes, either idiots or greedy bourgeois.

Here the emitter circuitry is as follows: 2 parallel groups of 30 in series 5630. Direct voltage in the region of 90V at + 25g r, and current 300mA.

The LEDs are mounted on a luminous board, which is screwed only at the corners. The fit is loose.

the result is in the photo. For a miserable 100 hours, the phosphor has already turned black, several diodes burned out with burning black holes in the phosphor. The driver is dead too. Groups of LEDs are re-connected by me in series, the driver is down-graded to a dull capacitor.

emitter large

It was experimentally found that such a radiator is able to maintain a sane temperature on the crystals in the region of + 80g and + 60g on the radiator, with a power of only 1/3 of the nominal power of the spotlight. What I did, the current is reduced three times.

Approximately the same picture for other powers of searchlights of this type: terrible overheating and rapid suffocation

morality? avoid buying such "new-style" spotlights, if possible, look for "old-style" one-piece molded spotlights.

By the way, pay attention to the drivers of different spotlights. They do not have a capacitor in the rectifier as a class. This is how manufacturers fight for a decent cosine phi. Needless to say, the 100Hz output ripple is huge. Capacitors at the output do not save. Do not use such spotlights where you work for a long time, take care of your eyes. At a minimum, it is useful to add an electrolyte to the rectifier, at least 10uF for every 10W

also note that all drivers, yes and LED lamps also, made according to the "step-down" scheme, i.e. there is not a transformer, but a choke, and there is no decoupling from the network! Be extremely careful! Isolation "crystal-substrate" is clearly not designed for mains voltage.

LED spotlight drivers

Power

The power of the driver must match the power of the spotlight, more precisely, the matrix in the spotlight. Do not rely on the power indicated on the searchlight body! We were repeatedly brought in for repair spotlights, proudly marked 50W in half a body with a 30-watt driver and a matrix inside. Installing a 50-watt driver in such a product will not end in anything good. It is necessary to read the marking of the burnt driver.

Dimensions

The driver must physically fit inside the LED spotlight. And still need to lay the wires.

On our website, the exact dimensions of the drivers are indicated.

Driver output current value

The value of the output current is always indicated on the driver case. This is the current that the driver will supply to the matrix. This value varies from approximately 300mA to 3000mA and should match the matrix supply current. Deviations of more than 5% are unacceptable.

Output voltage range

The driver's output voltage range is the two voltages within which the driver tries to stabilize the current.

Numbers can vary from 20 to 150 volts.

This range must match the corresponding matrix characteristic, or, if it is unknown, the output voltage range of the burnt driver.

This parameter does not have to match as exactly as the current value, but an approximate match should take place.

Input voltage - 220 volts

We produce different drivers for LED spotlights, not only for 220 volts. Therefore, when buying a driver, make sure that you are a driver for the input voltage you need - all drivers presented in this section are designed for 220, 127 and 110 volt networks.

For those who haven't read it, let me recap. Recently, a powerful 120 W LED spotlight was brought for repair, it worked for only a year. As it turned out, his driver burned out. And there I began to whine about the fragility of switching power supplies and wondered about finding a simpler and more reliable solution. Today I decided to assemble and test the operation of a circuit with a quenching capacitor. A similar circuit is widely used to power LED spotlights.

Pre-calculated the capacitance of the quenching capacitor using the well-known formula

For the calculation took the following parameters:

Uc (mains voltage) = 220 V;
U (voltage at the input of the diode bridge) = 60 V;
I (rated LED current) = 1.8 A;

According to the calculation, it turned out that a capacitor with a capacity of 27 microfarads is needed. I ran through the bins, scored all sorts of different capacitors to provide the desired capacity, as well as experiment with the deviation of the capacity from the calculated value. To avoid misunderstandings, I measured the capacitance of all capacitors with an E7-16 immitance meter.

Despite the venerable age of some specimens, the capacity practically corresponded to that indicated.

Soldered the diagram. In order not to bother much, I used the power unit from the board computer block nutrition. The result was such a design

It was interesting to know within what limits the current will change when the input voltage deviates by 20% from the nominal value with different values ​​of the capacitance of the quenching capacitor. The experiments were carried out with LEDs preheated for 30 minutes. The results of the measurements were summarized in a table and presented in graphical form. During the measurements, the voltage across the capacitor C2 changed within 58 V ... 62, I decided not to enter these values ​​into the table due to their insignificant change.

Graphs turned out to be linear

The native driver maintained the current flowing through the LEDs at 1.8 A. According to various sources, the nominal current of a 60 W LED is from 1.8 to 2 A, different sellers indicate different currents. We will assume that the current above 1.8 A is undesirable.

If you choose a capacitor with a capacity of 24 uF, then when the input voltage increases to 260 V, the current through the LEDs will not exceed the nominal value. In normal mode, with an input voltage of 220 V, a current of 1.5 A is provided, which corresponds to a power consumption of 90 W. With a rated current of 1.8 A, the calculated power is about 110 watts. Thus, at an input voltage of 220 V, we have a power reduction of 20 W (18%) relative to the nominal value. On the one hand, a lower current value increases the life of the LED, but leads to a decrease in the brightness of the glow, although this is not very noticeable to the eye. It would be nice to measure the brightness with a suitable device, but it is not available.