Redmond rsp 100s skyplug bluetooth smart socket. Remote controlled socket timer MA3301 for Android. Smart plug with Apple HomeKit support - Elgato Eve Energy

Smart socket on Arduino, what could be simpler. The main goal of this project was to develop sockets with wireless control, as well as “automate” login to Windows. The motivating component is to understand what RFID tags are and how to work with them. As a result, two devices were developed - an unlocker that reads cards and the smart socket itself, which receives the “turn on” signal from the unlocker. If I interest you, please read it.

By the way, the unlocker in this project can both read RFID tags and write on them. The scope of application of a smart socket is quite large. With their help, you can remotely turn on and off electrical devices. This project can also be used as an example for creating more complex devices for controlling electrical devices (more on this in the conclusion). First, I think it’s worth showing the project in action, and then telling how everything works.

What is it made of

Smart plug

Inside view:

Connection diagram:

Components used:

Arduino Leonardo
AC-DC miniature 12V power supply
Bluetooth module
Regular 220V socket, 2 pieces
220V plug with wire
Contact pad
Two-color LED for operation indication
Chipboard platform for placing components

Read more about the components. I placed all the components on a chipboard platform measuring 15 by 15 centimeters.

All components are fastened to the platform using screws and pre-drilled holes in the platform. I used Arduino Leonardo as a microcontroller, since this board, unlike Uno, for example, can act as a USB-HID device. The photo is of a Uno, but this is a photo taken before the idea of unlocking Windows using a power outlet was born. We need Leonardo to simulate entering a password. Instead of Leonardo, you could take Arduino Due, Micro, Zero or Esplora for these purposes.

Relay module

As for the relay module, it has two channels:

Switching currents up to 10A at AC250V or DC30V. There are two control pins for each relay and power and ground pins. It is important to note that the pins in this module are inverse, that is, doing this:

digitalWrite(relay_pin, HIGH);

You open the relay. In order for the current to flow, you need to apply a logical zero to the pin.

About wiring. For the low-voltage part of the circuit, I used regular DuPont connectors. For the high-voltage part, I took aluminum wires with a cross-section of 2 mm. Be very careful and attentive when installing high-voltage wires!

About the power supply. I used a power supply for LED strips, the output parameters of which are 12V, 0.4 A - enough and not too much for Arduino. Why is it needed? This is necessary so that the low-voltage part of the circuit uses the same voltage that goes to our sockets. The plus from the power supply is supplied to the Vin input of the Arduino, the minus to the Gnd. Note: it is quite safe to connect the USB cable at the same time as the connected power supply to Vin.

Bluetooth module

Now the most interesting part is the Bluetooth module. In this project I used the HC-05 module, since it can act as both a master and a slave.

My slave is a module installed in a smart socket, and my master is a module in the unlocker. Thus, the releaser is always the initiator of the connection. These modules can be configured to connect automatically when turned on. So I did. This Bluetooth module is configured by sending AT commands to it. In order for the module to receive AT commands, it must be switched to AT mode. The module that I came across (FC-114) has a button on board (see photo). If you hold it down when turning it on, the module will enter AT mode. Agree, it’s inconvenient. With this approach, I will not be able to dynamically connect to any previously unknown module. It would be nice if it were possible to apply a logical one to any pin of the module and thus enter AT mode. This is done in many modules, but not in FC-114. This pin is number 34 in my module and so that in the future, if I need to connect to Bluetooth modules dynamically, I soldered a wire to pin 34 of the module that can be connected to the Arduino pin.

Now about the commands for connecting two HC-05 bluetooth modules. In slave mode, each HC-05 module works out of the box. We just need to find out its MAC address, which we will use when configuring the wizard. We will do this using the AT commands that I mentioned above. First, you need to connect the RX pin of the bluetooth module to pin 0 of the Arduino (also RX), and the TX pin, respectively, to pin 1 of the Arduino. Please note that the connection here is not a crossover because we are using Arduino UART. Next, you need to upload an empty sketch to the Arduino, since again we are using the Arduino UART.

void setup() ( ) void loop() ( )

Next, before turning on the power, as I mentioned above, you need to hold down the small button on the Bluetooth module to enter AT mode. After that, using the standard IDE (Tools -> Serial Monitor). Also, by opening Serial Monitor, you need to set the baud rate to 38400 and set the \r\n character substitution after each command (Both NL & CR). You can check that everything is connected correctly and is working by entering “AT”. We should receive "OK" in response. Next, you can write the command "AT+NAME?". In response, we should receive the name of the Bluetooth module. On this moment We are working with a slave device, so all we need is to find out its MAC address and make sure that it is running in "Slave" mode and not "Master". To do this, enter two commands:

AT+ROLE?

If we receive 0, it means that the device is operating in “Slave” mode, 1 means “Master”. To change this value, the command is sent like this:

AT+ROLE=0 - change the operating mode to "Slave":

Now we find out the MAC address of the Slave so that the Master knows who he needs to connect to. Enter the command:

AT+ADDR?

For example, the answer was: "ADDR:20:2:110001". This means that the MAC address of our Slave is 20:2:110001.

This completes the work with the Slave. Let's move on to configuring the Master. In the same way, we connect it to the Arduino and upload an empty sketch, open Serial Monitor, set the baud rate to 38400, and substitute /r/n. Next, enter the commands in order.

AT+ORGL AT+RMAAD AT+ROLE=1 AT+CMODE=1 AT+INIT AT+INQ AT+LINK=MAC address (example: 20,2,110001)

So, more details about each team. The ORGL command completely resets the device, and the RMAAD command removes all previous “pairs” with other Slave devices. The ROLE command, as mentioned above, having an argument of 1 means that we want the device to operate in Master mode. The CMODE command with argument 1 (default is 0) means that our Master device can connect to a Slave device with any address (you can set a specific one). The INIT command launches the SPP (Serial Port Profile) library, which is necessary for transmitting/receiving information. A succinct statement of why it is needed: “While the Bluetooth specification describes how this technology works, profiles define how to work with this technology.” You may receive error 17 on this step. This means the library is already running, just continue. The INQ command means that our Master device begins searching for Slave devices. The output of this command is a list of MAC addresses of the found devices. For example:

+INQ:address,type,signal 20:2:110001,0.7FFF

The signal and type can be ignored. We find the MAC address of our Slave and use the following LINK command to connect the Master device to the Slave. Note that here the colons in the MAC address are replaced by commas. After this, your Bluetooth devices should start blinking twice every ~2 seconds. This means they are connected. Before this, they blinked quite often (twice per second) - this means that they are looking for a “pair”.

Full list of AT commands:

Releaser

Inside view:

Connection diagram:

Components used:

Arduino Uno
Bluetooth module
RFID sensor
LCD module
Toggle switch to switch mode
Piezo element

LCD module

For this project, a 1620 LCD module was used. This display is capable of displaying 2 lines of 16 characters each. The module connects to the Arduino microcontroller via the I2C interface. I2C – serial data bus for communication integrated circuits, using two bidirectional communication lines (SDA and SCL). Data is transmitted over two wires - the data wire and the clock wire. There is a leader (master) and a slave (slave), the master generates clocks, the slave only receives bytes. In total, there can be up to 127 devices on one two-wire bus. I2C uses two bidirectional lines, connected to the supply voltage and controlled through an open collector or open drain - a serial data line (SDA, English Serial Data) and a serial clock line (SCL, English Serial Clock). The sketch uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library to work with this module. With its help, displaying data is extremely simple. This code example prints two character strings onto two display lines.

void lcd_display_two_lines(const char* first_line, const char* second_line) ( g_lcd.clear(); g_lcd.setCursor(0, 0); // Set the cursor to the beginning of the first line g_lcd.print(first_line); g_lcd.setCursor(0, 1); // Place the cursor at the beginning of the second line g_lcd.print(second_line);

RFID module

This module and RFID technology in general were especially interesting to understand. As part of this project, the RC-522 RFID module was used, which works with HF standard cards, in particular MIFARE with a frequency of 13.56 MHz. This module connects to the Arduino microcontroller via the SPI interface. SPI is a serial, synchronous, full-duplex data transfer standard designed to provide simple, low-cost, high-speed interconnection between microcontrollers and peripherals. SPI uses four digital signals:

MOSI – Used to transfer data from a master device to a slave device;
MISO – Serves to transfer data from a slave device to a master device;
SCK – Serves to transmit a clock signal for slave devices;
NSS – chip selection, slave selection

The RFID module acts as a slave, and the microcontroller acts as a master.

Memory structure of MIFARE Classic RFID cards

The memory of MIFARE Classic chips has a clear structure (unlike MIFARE DESFIre, which has a more complex file-based memory organization). The memory of MIFARE 1K and MIFARE 4K is divided into sectors, 16 sectors for MIFARE 1K and 40 sectors for MIfare 4K. Each MIFARE 1K sector and the first 32 MIFARE 4K sectors consist of three data blocks and one block for storing keys (Sector Trailer). The last 8 sectors of MIFARE 4K consist of 15 data blocks and one (16th) key storage block. Data blocks are available for reading/writing subject to successful authorization using the key.

About the "service" block. The Sector Trailer block stores the secret values of the keys (A and B) for accessing the corresponding sector, as well as the access condition (determined by the value of the access bits). The Sector Trailer block is always the last (fourth) block in the sector. Each MIFARE Classic sector can have its own access keys and conditions for writing/reading data.

About data blocks. Each data block consists of 16 bytes available for writing/reading (except for block 0 of sector 0, where non-erasable factory information is stored). Data is written/read using the key and access bits. Data blocks can be configured as normal write/read blocks, or as fiat storage blocks (electronic wallet function). Any information (numbers, symbols, etc.) can be written to ordinary data blocks. If a data block is configured as a block for storing conventional units, then such a block is processed using the increment/decrement commands. That is, the numerical value stored in such a block can only be increased and decreased.

About access rules. All sectors of the MIFARE Classic card are accessed according to the same rules. Access to a particular sector is made using keys (Key A and Key B). Using the Access Condition (access condition in the Sector Trailer), the conditions for writing and reading data from each sector using one key (A or B) or both keys A and B at the same time are set. For example, when using MIFARE card clients, you can implement reading (read only) data from the block using key A, while the system administrator can read and write data to the MIFARE memory using key B. In the fourth block of each sector (Sector Trailer) for To ensure such access control, three bits (access bits) C1, C2 and C3 are used. Using these bits, you can set eight different access modes to the MIFARE sector. Bit C1 is considered the least significant bit (LSB).

About how I used the memory of RFID tags. The project uses two modes: the main one – reading RFID cards and turning on the socket, the additional one – programming RFID cards. To authorize an RFID card, the unlocker writes a secret key 128 bytes long to it. 128 bytes = 8 blocks of 16 bytes. 3 blocks are written to sector 1, 3 blocks to sector 2 and, finally, the remaining 2 blocks to sector 3. To read, authentication is required with key A, for writing - with key B, which are located in the trailer block. The key length of 128 bytes was chosen without any principles; at least the entire memory of the card could be used. The key is a random set of characters that is found in the firmware code of both the unlocker and the smart socket. Such a solution clearly does not have super-security, but within the framework of the project, the task was not to provide a secure system. This is also discussed in the conclusion.

Connecting a toggle switch

It seems to me that it also makes sense to note the connection of the toggle switch to the Arduino. The toggle switch in the unlocker is used to switch the operating mode. In the first mode, the device reads RFID cards and if the secret key mentioned above is written in the required memory blocks of the card, it sends a bluetooth signal “Turn on sockets and unlock Windows” to the smart socket. In the second mode, the unlocker writes a secret key to the RFID card. Before writing, it reads the card: if the correct secret key is already written on it, it clears the necessary memory blocks by writing zeros. Agree, it is strange to equip the unlocker with both a reading and writing function for RFID cards. About why this is so - in conclusion.

When connecting toggle switches, buttons, switches, “contact bounce” occurs - a phenomenon in which, instead of clear and stable switching, we get random multiple uncontrolled closing and opening of contacts. In other words, when the contacts touch, they begin to oscillate (i.e., “rattle”), causing many operations instead of just one. Accordingly, the microcontroller will “catch” all these clicks, because the rattling noise is indistinguishable from a real button press.

To suppress the "bounce" I used a 20 kOhm pull-up resistor built into the Arduino. It pulls up to logical one. Since the toggle switch has both positions - ON, pulling it to logical one is what is needed. It is used this way:

pinMode(pin_number, INPUT); // Connect the pin to the input pinMode(pin_number, INPUT_PULLUP); // Pull up the input to power

Conclusion

So, I got two devices, one of them receives signals via bluetooth and activates sockets, as well as unlocks Windows on the connected computer, and the other sends these signals after successful validation using an RFID tag. However, as I said, it was strange to do both writing and reading in one device, without any protection. I did this only because I wanted to go beyond reading the RFID card ID and comparing it with the hardcoded value, and try to work with its memory, which is what it is actually intended for. Thus, now I know how to write any information onto an RFID card, how to read it, how to make a Read Only card, etc. The result is a system for home use. And so it turns out, I use my device at home, the smart socket is connected to the computer, speakers and a phone charger are connected to it. The unlocker is located at the entrance of the room. I won’t say that this is a device I can’t live without, but it does have ideas for real practical use. One of them is quite feasible and will be implemented.

It is planned to create an access control system for a student’s workplace in a classroom with computers. Looking ahead, I will say that our university uses the MIFARE 1K RFID card as a student ID card. Let's assume that we have a small classroom with 6 computers, in other words, 6 workstations.

First, we “clone” the smart socket - we make 5 more such devices so that in addition to using a computer, the student can connect his laptop/soldering iron/phone to the socket. This is where the dynamic connection of the Master bluetooth device with the Slave device, which I talked about when talking about the bluetooth module, comes in handy. You will no longer have to modify the smart plug in any way. The only thing is that you will have to look for a solution so that it is impossible to reprogram the Arduino microcontroller connected to the computer via a USB cable.

Now it’s worth talking about changes in the unlocker. We deprive it of the recording function, leaving the ability to only read RFID cards. If we used homemade RFID cards, we would also need to make a device for writing RFID cards. Since it is planned to use ready-made student cards with ready-made recorded information, this device it is not required within the framework of a future project, but if you use your own, “custom” maps, its creation would be very simple, taking into account the work done on this project. Also, the unlocker will need to be equipped with an Ethernet or WiFi module to be able to make requests to the management server. Which one and why, you ask? To make the system more flexible and convenient, before coming to work in the classroom, the student needs to “reserve” his place using this website. When checking a student's RFID card, the unlocker will contact this server to check your reservation (and anything else if you want). It remains to think about how to implement a double-check of the student’s presence (he left and did not attach a card) and a convenient way of informing about the end of “working” time.

Timer configurable using a smartphone or tablet running Android OS.
Communication and synchronization of the timer occurs via Bluetooth, using a module installed on the timer.
You can configure 100 events by hour and date.
A relay is installed on board the timer to control the external load.
Power supply: 220 volts.

Connection and Application Guide
1.1 Connecting to a timer.
Click . In the pop-up menu, click the item and in the dialog box that appears, click search for equipment. Bluetooth devices will be searched and the results will be displayed as a list in two dialogs. At the top is a list of paired devices. In the bottom are all available non-paired Bluetooth devices.
Select your device.
The smartphone will connect to the paired device automatically.
Devices that are not paired will ask for a password to log in. (some smartphones notify you of this with a message in a panel at the top of the screen). Click on this message or slide it down. For the first connection to the timer, enter - 1999 (factory password value). After connecting and synchronizing data, a message indicating successful initialization will be displayed on the screen. Be sure to wait until initialization is complete before moving on to other actions.

1.2 Changing the Bluetooth connection password.
1. Click then [change password].
2.Enter a new four-digit password.
3. Re-enter the new password.
4. Click [Change] The message “Password has been successfully changed, please restart the device to take effect!” appears.
5. To restart the timer, press the RST button.

1.3 Switching on and off.
You can turn the timer on or off using the button at the bottom of the smartphone screen.

1.4 Timer settings.
The timer allows you to configure 100 events that can be executed: once, daily, weekly, on a specific date.
1 In the list on the main screen you can see the entire list of configured events.
2. To change the settings of any event, click on it and you will be taken to the settings panel.
3. Set the event time.
4. Set the action to ON. / OFF
5. Set the day of the week or event date. Attention! From these settings you can choose one thing: day of the week or date.
a. Setting the day of the week: click on the week panel, in the interface that opens, check the box for the required day.
b. Setting the date: Click on the date field, in the opened date setting interface, set the date.
c. Delete Date: Long pressing on the date field will open a dialog box asking you to delete the date setting. Click .
6. Click "OK" to exit the installation interface.

Additional Information:
The "OK" button to confirm the settings is located at the top right of the screen. When you click on it, all settings take effect.
You can delete an event by long pressing on it. Once released, a prompt to delete will appear. Click .

Who to entrust this to in the house.

The “Internet of Things” has been talked about more and more often lately; it is for this reason that fifth-generation mobile communication networks are being developed, but at least another five years will pass before the mass introduction of “smart controllers” into household appliances. Yes and existing Appliances By that time, it is unlikely to have time to become so physically outdated that everyone will run to exchange it for a new one.

Therefore, for now the only available way to implement a “smart home” in a single apartment is to use adapters with built-in controllers remote control or, more simply put, “smart plugs”.

How it works

All smart sockets are designed quite simply: inside there is an electromagnetic relay that closes and opens contacts, connecting and disconnecting the load, as well as a controller that actually controls this relay. At first glance, since everything is so primitive, there is no difference - take the first socket you come across and use it.

But this is only at first glance: the capabilities of the controller and the design of the socket (as well as the maximum power of the supported load) are the whole point! It is this salt that determines which scenarios are possible when using sockets and which are not.

Why is this necessary?

There are many options for using smart plugs: they can be used with any device that can be turned on and off. The first thing that comes to mind is to remember to turn off all electrical appliances when leaving home. With a smart plug, you are always sure that you didn't leave the iron on.

The second is the advance switching on of certain electrical appliances. For example, in winter, of course, you can keep the radiator on all the time, but then you will go broke on electricity - you will agree that it is much more convenient to turn it on directly from your smartphone an hour before returning so that it is warm when you arrive. Or, for example, turn on the boiler at the dacha in the same way in advance. As an option, you can program an “alarm clock” for yourself using a floor lamp that turns on and a high-volume music center.

The third is an imitation of the presence of the owners in the house. You went on vacation to the sea, and every evening at home the lights come on and music plays - thieves, most likely, will not come to you, but to the neighbors who have peace and quiet. Finally, using a smart plug, you can reboot frozen devices - for example, a router, NAS or some kind of security camera.

Just a couple of years ago, such devices were a novelty, but now there is a fairly wide range of “smart plugs” on the market, so there is plenty to choose from. Let's figure it out.

GSM sockets SenseIT

The SenseIT company was one of the first to enter the Russian smart plug market 5 years ago and even managed to implement a pilot project in a number of regions with MegaFon, which offered a special tariff plan for sockets. Not without reason: the SIM card was installed directly into the socket body! When you only have one smart socket, this may be a good solution, but when there are several, you need to have a whole zoo of numbers and remember them all, and also memorize the syntax of SMS commands to control them. In general, the solution was for those who still use MS-DOS. IN last generation SenseIT sockets have made everything more convenient. There are now two options: SenseIT GS2 M (controllable master socket with host controller) and GS2 S - controlled socket without host controller.

Accordingly, up to ten GS2 S can be connected to the GS2 M, and communication between them is carried out using a proprietary protocol in the unlicensed LPD band (433 MHz) - it is also used, for example, by household walkie-talkies. The sockets can operate on a timer and schedule, and are also equipped with a built-in temperature sensor, so they can be controlled automatically depending on the room temperature. True, it is only useful if you connect a heater or fan; the rest of the time, the presence of a sensor simply increases the cost of the design.

Sockets are controlled via a web interface or an application for iOS and Android. Customizable push notifications for various events are supported, including power outages, temperature changes, etc. Commands can be sent to additional sockets either individually or all at once. A current of up to 16 A is supported, that is, a load of up to 3.5 kW.

The disadvantages of SenseIT sockets include, firstly, bulkiness: each is the size of a good transformer network adapter– not everyone will be ready to hang such “bricks”, albeit streamlined ones, in their home, spoiling the interior. Secondly, the price: the main socket costs 5,990 rubles, and each additional socket costs 3,690: this is not expensive, but very expensive!

Thirdly, the system does not scale in any way, but remains a “thing in itself” - apart from sockets, there are no other “smart devices” compatible with it, and it itself only works through own server– if the supplier suddenly stops supporting them, the sockets will stop working. In this case, control occurs only via the Internet. If you are at home and the Internet is not working, you can only turn the load on and off manually using the buttons on the sockets.

In addition, solutions based on the LPD band are the least noise-resistant, so their owners often complain about spontaneous loss of communication between the controller and controlled devices.

Xiaomi Mi Smart Socket

The Chinese manufacturer of various gadgets has become famous for the fact that they are very cheap, but can do the same thing as expensive models. Moreover, the Mi Smart Socket is also an adapter, since you can connect to it different types plugs, and at the same time it also has a USB connector, which allows you to use it as Charger, and as a smart power controller for low-voltage devices.

True, here’s the problem: despite the fact that the socket is also sold in Russia, it is initially aimed only at the domestic market of the Celestial Empire, so its plug is Chinese, and it can only be inserted into our European sockets through an adapter, the purchase of which will also have to be taken care of. Its necessity negates such advantages of the socket as compactness and inconspicuousness.

The socket supports current up to 10 A, that is, devices with a power of up to 10 kW, and communicates with the outside world via Wi-Fi. That is, like any other device on the network, the Xiaomi smart socket receives its own IP address and is then “registered” in the smartphone application, through which it is controlled. The application is only available on Chinese, but translated into Russian by enthusiasts, and the APK file for Android can be downloaded online.

To work with the application, you need to create a Mi account (and if you already have, for example, a Mi Band fitness tracker, then you already have an account).

At initial setup you need to specify the SSID and password for your home Wi-Fi networks, after which the outlet will connect to the Internet and establish a connection with its own cloud service. Without it, nothing will work, and, for example, if your router freezes, you will not be able to reboot it remotely. For the same reason, the Xiaomi solution is not suitable for use in a country house, where you are unlikely to have constantly and stably working Wi-Fi.

However, for the sake of such a thing, you can keep a mobile 3G router at your dacha and configure the operation of sockets through it, but this is an extra expense, and such devices like to “freeze” with enviable regularity.

In the application, you can separately control the outlet itself, and separately control the USB output. It supports turning on and off the load according to a schedule (specific times and days of the week are set), however, there is a small surprise: the sockets live in the Chinese time zone, so when using them in Russia, you need to remember to set the time with a 5-hour shift.

In addition, it supports turning sockets on and off based on the presence of you at home. That is, if you leave (this is determined by the disappearance of the smartphone from the home Wi-Fi network), the electrical appliances will turn off on their own; you don’t need to check anything yourself. However, this mode also needs to be configured wisely, otherwise everything will turn off at the most inopportune moment, when, for example, your smartphone battery is dead.

Luckily, each outlet has a button to force the load on or off. The sockets can also be triggered by motion detection by the Xiaomi Ants video camera.

You will not receive notifications on your smartphones about a loss of power to the outlet. Moreover, the Xiaomi smart socket does not remember its last state, so after the power supply is restored, it will remain turned off in any case, and you will not know about it unless you look in the application. So if you often have power surges, get into the habit of monitoring the status of your smart plugs.

In general, Xiaomi creates an entire ecosystem (it has not only sockets, but also lamps, air purifiers, air conditioners and even TVs) smart devices, however, to the disadvantages of a closed system that works strictly through its own server, there is also the use of Wi-Fi technology.

The 2.4 GHz band is already heavily overloaded in cities (namely, they work in 2.4 GHz Xiaomi devices), therefore the stability and reliability of the connection between the router and devices will be highly controversial. And most household routers are not designed to simultaneously connect dozens of devices and when overloaded they begin to overheat, slow down and freeze, so you can buy a couple of sockets, but you cannot build a full-fledged “smart home” based on them.

And, again, targeting the Chinese market - all these adapters and timer advances are simply inconvenient. But the price of $21 in China - 1,700 rubles at the current exchange rate (Central Bank of the Russian Federation at the time of writing) - is not so expensive.

Redmond SkyPlug 100S

The Redmond company began entering the market of “smart” devices not from sockets, but from multicookers, kettles, climate control devices, etc. Smart small household appliances have been sold in Russia since 2014, and sockets went on sale at the end of 2015. All Redmond smart appliances are part of the Redmond Smart Home ecosystem and have general principles management and is controlled using a single Ready for Sky application (supports Android 4.3+ and iOS 8.0+).

The Redmond SkyPlug socket has a very compact size - no larger than an adapter-adapter from one plug to another, therefore it is practically invisible, being inserted between the plug of the device and the socket on the wall. The relay supports a current of up to 10 A, respectively, a load of up to 2.2 kW. Roughly speaking, you can safely connect even powerful heaters.

Used for control bluetooth technology LE, that is, a control device in the form of a smartphone with installed application Ready for Sky pairs directly with all the smart appliances in your home and then allows you to control them completely offline, without the need for an Internet connection. This also provides additional security - because the data is encrypted, and without authorization no one else will be able to control your devices.

All parameters (scheduled switching on, etc.) are stored directly in the controller’s memory inside the socket, so even if there is no connection with the controlling smartphone, the system will still remain operational and independent. By the way, like Xiaomi, there is an opportunity here automatic shutdown loads when you leave the apartment, and automatic switching on sockets upon return - the mode is called “I’m at home”.

You can also completely block the outlet so that children left at home cannot turn on this or that electrical appliance on their own. The Bluetooth range declared by the manufacturer is 15 meters. Judging by reviews of Redmond Smart Home equipment, the “range” of BT often even exceeds this distance. The low radiation power of BT also has a positive side: Bluetooth LE devices are much more environmentally friendly than devices with Wi-Fi, and the difference in the total emitted radiation power is multiple.

Of course, there is no scientific evidence yet to confirm the connection between radiation and diseases. But no one wants to be the first to prove this by example?

For remote control via the Internet, at any distance, an interesting solution is used - a smartphone-based gateway. You can use your own old device, or purchase an already configured gateway smartphone released by Redmond together with MTS (by the way, when you buy three R4S devices, they give it for free).

Redmond Gateway immediately comes with a SIM card with special tariff MTS Telematics, according to which your expenses for managing a smart home will not exceed 10 rubles per month. The Gateway is a gateway: all sockets and other Redmond smart appliances are connected to it via Bluetooth, and it, accordingly, is already connected via the Internet to your smartphone.

By the way, you can use both Wi-Fi and cellular communication: If one of these channels stops working, the second one will remain. At the same time, you can continue to use your smartphone or gateway tablet for its intended purpose - all applications remain available. Again, the smartphone has a battery, so it is not afraid of power outages.

The Redmond SkyPlug socket separately costs 1,999 rubles, the R4S Gateway smartphone will cost 3,495. But, for example, a set of three sockets and a smartphone will cost only 4,999 rubles. Moreover, Redmond also has tee extension cords and “smart sockets” for electric lamps that work on the same principle (via Bluetooth or via the Internet via a gateway).

Interestingly, like other products in the Redmond Smart Home line, the SkyPlug socket regularly receives new firmware - which means that over time it can learn new use cases.

ESP8266

In the geek environment, the inexpensive ESP8266 Wi-Fi module is popular, on the basis of which you can independently make “smart controllers” to control this or that equipment. After installing custom firmware, you can connect to it various sensors: temperature, pressure, light, humidity - and, accordingly, program it to control relays or other electronic devices according to certain conditions.

The caveat, as usual, is that all this requires some knowledge of programming and the ability to hold a soldering iron.

However, there are also ready-made mass-produced devices based on this module. For example, Sonoff Wi-Fi Wireless Switch is a small, compact and cheap ($6 excluding delivery) module that can be integrated into electrical wiring (if, again, you can find a place for it) and thus make existing sockets “smart”. .

True, and it only works through its cloud service eWeLink uses Wi-Fi (which, as we found out, is not good), but the first problem can at least be solved by reprogramming. In general, the solution is interesting, but, of course, not widespread: some people will like to tinker with installation and configuration, but most people need “bought, turned on, works.”

There are also some questions about the safety of “Do it yourself” solutions: after all, there is more trust in factory-assembled devices that have passed all kinds of tests and certifications than in homemade ones.

Results

There are other solutions on the market that are one way or another similar to the ones we talked about. Accordingly, they have the same advantages and disadvantages. LPD433-based devices are the easiest to configure, but are the least reliable and have scalability issues.

There are more Wi-Fi outlets, and you are not limited to the ecosystem of one manufacturer (unless you have to install a lot of applications on your smartphone), but the stability of operation leaves much to be desired, and the prices are quite high.

Bluetooth solutions with a router are the most universal and easy to use, but only one company produces them in Russia. “Homemade” solutions are flexible in settings and very cheap, but require time and skills in order to start using them. The choice is yours!

5.00 out of 5, rated: 1 )

website Who to entrust this to in the house. The “Internet of Things” has been talked about more and more often lately; it is for this reason that fifth-generation mobile communication networks are being developed, but at least another five years will pass before the mass introduction of “smart controllers” into household appliances. And by that time, existing household appliances are unlikely to have become so physically obsolete that...

The smart plug is one of the most useful household gadgets we've ever reviewed. It allows you to save money, secure your home, and remotely control various gadgets - in a word, another “twist” for your smart home. Today, among 1600 models, we have chosen for you 4 smart GSM sockets with a Wi-Fi connector - choose what is right for you. But first, according to tradition, an educational program.

Chinese Xiaomi company keeps up with its competing manufacturers and presented the Xiaomi Mi Smart Power Plug. A distinctive feature of this model is its compactness, ease of use and versatility.

Controlling the Xiaomi outlet and, accordingly, the equipment connected to it is possible from any place where there is an Internet connection. The remote control function is convenient and safe, because now you don’t need to worry about the light or iron not being turned off. You just need to install the Xiaomi Mi Smart Home application and synchronize with mobile device and Wi-Fi network. The application supports Android platforms and iOS. You can control your energy consumption using the built-in smart timer option, which allows you to set certain time automatic switching on and off of the device.

The minimalistic design of the smart socket will suit any interior: small dimensions (63x55x35 mm) and a white glossy coating made of durable thermoplastic that can withstand temperatures up to 750°C. The panel has universal inputs, including a USB connector. A blue indicator light indicates a successful connection.

The manufacturer took care of additional safety from children in the form of built-in protective curtains, as well as automatic shutdown when the device overheats. The last option is controlled by a temperature sensor, which sends a notification to the smartphone when the device temperature is elevated.

Multifunctional smart socket – TP-Link Smart Plug

TP-Link has long been known to consumers as a reliable manufacturer network equipment, including in the niche of smart sockets. The functionality and operating features of this model will be clear even to those who have never held such a device in their hands. The design is simple - just insert the nozzle into the socket and immediately proceed to setting it up.

Setting up TP-Link Smart Plug This happens with the help of special software. First, we connect the outlet itself to the wireless network, and then configure it from the smartphone as you please, since the interface is available.

Everything is intuitive: basic on/off, the ability to set the device on a timer (especially useful for forgetful people who leave the iron or heater on) or set the outlet to automatically turn off if you move a certain distance from it. You can even create a schedule to automatically turn off appliances to save energy - you will have to tinker with the settings, but the bills will become less scary, as well as network overheating.

There is no confusion when managing multiple outlets; the device immediately offers to rename the device and assign a unique icon, avoiding the typical “room1/2/3”. Scheduling is the simplest and most intuitive interface among other models.

If the first model seemed a little expensive, pay attention to the next one with simpler functionality and a reasonable price.

Review from a real buyer To be honest, I didn’t even know that such sockets existed until I saw them in an online store. I bought one for myself to test, it turned out to be a useful thing! Now I'm thinking of getting a couple of these.

Smart socket - NooLite SRF-1-3000

Saving electricity is an integral habit of every modern person, because using excess electricity is harmful not only to our wallet, but also to the environment. The smart socket presented to your attention is designed for use with such important household electrical appliances as an illumination system.

Thus, the device interacts with such types of lamps as: incandescent, halogen lamps, LED systems, the device also supports the operation of heating systems, electric motors and contactors.

The smart socket is truly universal, because it is suitable for any output with a voltage of 220 V. The gadget is controlled using a radio remote control and waves, which, accordingly, are received by the nooLite system located in the socket block. Thanks to this, you can control the light from neighboring rooms and even outside your home. In addition, the socket “can” remember scenarios for using illumination and repeat them over and over again.

Smart socket with LCD screen

The microclimate of a home is extremely important both for a person’s comfort and for his health, because sudden changes in temperature quite strongly affect the functioning of various systems body. A high-quality smart socket will help you create an individual microclimate and maintain it without much energy consumption.

The presented device is compatible with any climate control devices, such as air conditioning systems, air heaters, heaters, etc. The maximum voltage at which operation is possible is 230 V.

So, a smart socket connects to a classic socket in an apartment or office, creating its own output for climate control devices. Thanks to the small LCD screen and button system, you can quickly and easily set the desired temperature, after which the system will maintain it itself. The thermostat also has a safety and automatic shutdown system to prevent fires.

The safest smart plug - Redmond

Opening fire statistics, you can see that one of the most common reasons fire is overheating of electric heating and other devices, after which short circuit. Due to our dynamic lifestyle, sometimes we often forget to turn off the heater, iron, electric kettle or lamp, and this can cost us property.

To prevent this problem, you should consider purchasing REDMOND RSP-R1S - a universal security system for remote power control.

The presented gadget connects to a standard outlet and provides you with as many as four outlets for devices, namely a classic outlet, a Euro outlet, a British type and, which is very convenient in the era of smartphones, USB interface for charging. The device also contains a sensor that connects to a Wi-Fi wireless network. It is thanks to it that you can control your nutrition via the Internet from your smartphone from anywhere in the world: work, vacation, walks, etc.

Review from a real buyer It’s very cool that it is controlled via WiFi. It was quite a shock for me! I have never seen such devices before. Now I’m slowly getting used to civilization.

Smart plug with Apple HomeKit support - Elgato Eve Energy

Once upon a time, a smart home was considered an invention of science fiction writers, but today the dream of remote control of all home systems is becoming a reality. The unique Elgato Eve Energy smart socket helps with this. This compact device was designed for all hobbyists Apple technology.

The gadget supports the proprietary Apple HomeKit system, which allows wireless system Bluetooth 4.0 connects all your iOS devices to a power outlet and controls them both using your smartphone and using a proprietary voice assistant Siri. The device also reads the usage metrics of a particular device, thanks to which you can see such valuable energy consumption and draw a number of conclusions. The body of the smart socket is made of high-quality plastic that does not burn even when heated for a long time.

The best GSM socket - ZDK GSM SC-1 White

The name of the smart socket indicates the presence of a GSM module, which is responsible for remote control of the device. In addition, in the socket panel you can see a slot for SIM cards. Thus, power management is possible via SMS commands or mobile app.

The socket is in demand in the market due to its ease of use. To activate the remote control function, you must insert any SIM card into the slot mobile network, connect the outlet to the electrical network and then connect the necessary devices. Just 3 steps, and your home is controlled from a distance. It is worth noting that the power of connected devices should not exceed 2 kW. With its small dimensions (39x25x12 mm), a battery is located inside the gadget, informing about power failures.

Most often, the socket is used as a smart home controller: controlling household appliances, doors, gates, surveillance cameras, lighting, etc.

The best Wi-Fi socket - Smart home Hommyn Wi-Fi (PL-20-W)

Smart socket home Hommyn Wi-Fi (PL-20-W) is an excellent addition to a smart home. The Wi-Fi network connection function simplifies the use of the outlet: just one press of the power button, and the adapter connects to an available Internet network. Everything is extremely simple, and the indicator at the bottom of the device will inform you that it is ready to start working. After successful connection, manage smart gadget can be done using a special application installed on a smartphone with the Android/iOS operating system. The socket operates from a network with a power of 220V.

In addition to the remote control function via a smartphone, the socket has built-in equally important functions of a timer and “schedule” for automatically turning on/off devices. Using these options, you can program a smart socket to one-time/permanently activate the devices connected to it for a certain time.

The smart plug has a nice appearance and will fit into any interior. Elongated in length with rounded corners, it has a body made of white durable plastic and dimensions 103X63X37 mm.

Smart plug comparison chart

Name	Main characteristics	Price
	Protocol: IEEE 802.11b/g/n type wireless transmission: 2.4 GHz, 1T1R, system requirements: Android 4.1 or higher, iOS 8 or higher.
	Supply voltage: 230V ± 10%, 50Hz, number of load channels: 1, maximum load power: 3000W.
	Temperature range 5 °C to 30 °C, operating accuracy +/-1 °C, maximum permissible voltage 230 V.
Redmond

I've tested (and broken) several network-controlled power outlets lately, including Belkin's WeMo and TP-Link's HS100. Both were controlled via Wi-Fi. Now the turn has come to a device from the Avi-on line from GE (manufactured under license by Jasco). Unlike the others I've listed, this plug is Bluetooth-based and comes with some fancy features.

Each device in the Avi-on family not only has a receiver, but also a network transmitter, which theoretically allows you to control any item in your home using an Android or iOS device. (Provided, of course, that they are able to “see” each other). The subject of today's study will be the BT4101 smart socket, which is also quite flexible in configuration settings. You can schedule it for 7 days, set it to turn on at dusk and turn off at dawn (with automatic seasonal adjustments), program a countdown, and have it turn on and off randomly for an immersive experience while you're away.

I'll start, as usual, with a photo of the packaging.

Inside you will find a brochure and user manual.

Here's a close-up of the markings on the back.

These rubber plugs, inserted without glue, clearly indicate the presence of screws underneath.

Voila, I was right!

I have never encountered such screw slots before.

But, as always, my 64-bit iFixit kit was up to the task.

When the screws are removed, the top cover is immediately removed, allowing access to the insides.

The first one that catches my eye is the HF115FD relay from Xiamen Hongfa Electroacoustic.

The ground pin is connected to the corresponding wire using a screw, which seemed a little strange since the other two were simply soldered on. (I wonder if this is done in the interests of flexibility in adapting production to different international wall outlet standards?)